Hands Up: Arturo Obegero

January 23, 2022
Courtesy: Arturo Obegero

HOLD BACK THE NIGHT  

A haunted and radiant black, a black in fusion, imbued with all the intrigue of Balenciaga, whom Givenchy considered “the architect of haute couture” and Yves Saint Laurent, whose spirit is celebrated in this technical jersey and lace Sophie Halette tee shirt. Arturo Obegero, a native of Asturia, Spain, always keeps a jet stone (or black amber), a variety of lignite, fossilized from the debris of conifers and plants, near his hands. He has even created a perfume from it, with a black bottle, produced in a limited edition with Pigmentarium. His hands, ringed with silver, draw curves and lines in space, just like his logo. For this former dancer, who studied at the Saint Martins School before a stint in the Lanvin studio, gesture is the very essence of his work. The very source. In March 2020, he created his own company. “I work in a five square meters; the workshop is my home It’s my passion, I don’t know what else I would do.”  He continues: “I draw, I make collages, I make the patterns, I cut, I sew, I am obsessive, I put everything I have into each garment. Even if a design is very pure, you can express your soul.” 

And this is what emerges in his collection of 22 looks for the season, shown at the Palais de Tokyo. A soul within the hands – swirling with visions of his childhood, those of the Asturian mountains, a setting that is both “poetic and melancholic.” Not to mention the cult of Antonio Gades, the flamenco dancer who became the first director of the Ballet Nacional de Espana.  This undoubtedly explains the couture floreos, worthy of the elaborate figures that accompany the play of hands and fingers. The ample and folded collars, the French cuffs, the balloon sleeves of a velvet jacket from a cut-out theatre curtain – all these details speak to the nobility of a fundamental gesture. Obegero is here, aristocratically stretched between austerity and dream; fantasy and reality. A name to remember. “Touching a fabric is like taking a body in your hands,” he says. “I like materials that have shape, while being sensual.” 

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