What made you to return to the runway show this season?
Initially I was going to present the collection through a video. An abstract idea of a solitary dancer came to my mind, a devoted dancer with no public attention. It was partly a reflection of myself. For the video, I only wanted to show the movement of legs hence the design of 3way trousers which transforms from micro shorts, cropped trousers, to full length trousers. As I developed the collection further, I realized my creative vision would be best presented on a runway. For the past seasons the median of video provided me a new dimension to present my collection yet I always valued the urgency of the physical show thus decided to return this season.
What is the thoughts behind the theme ”PAUSE≒PLAY”?
I have repeatedly expressed urgency to further evolve fashion and kept looking forward but for the first time this season I felt the need to pause and reevaluate. Up until now I have never looked back on my own past or self reflected but this season I started to develop the collection by thinking about who I am as a person. I pressed “pause” for a moment In order to press “play” again. On the day of the runway show, I will press “play” to complete the collection.
Can you introduce key items from the collection?
There are many items that encourage the wearer to press “play” on their own terms. In recent years, upcycled items have gained popularity in the market yet I’m skeptical of homogenization. So in response to the trend, I designed new jackets including a new take on vests achieving the look of up-cycling. In the collection, there is a recurring theme of juxtaposing the familiar against the innovative. As is always the case, I portray my thoughts and emotions through every detail in each design,
Talk to us about the particularly unique garment that also serves the functionality of a bag……
The concept of “pause” also became “pose” as if it’s a play on words. I saw the saturation of bags on runways and wanted to think about models posing without bags, and question the necessity of carrying bags. I never quite presented bags as part of my collection but this season I cut out the sleeve and hems from military and outdoor garments and added pockets to create new garments that will free ourselves from bags.
Can you tell us about the graphic created for the collection?
At home, I’ve lived with the photograph of a girl by Joseph Szabo over 20 years. I had an idea of using the image for the collection and contacted him and was granted permission. For the collection, the picture was altered to look like it has been almost shredded. It’s also a reflection of my secrecy. When pressing the “pause” button of an old VHS player, it often renders the image burry. This to me is like a flashback from the past. This image led me to create the graphic.
There was an unexpected appearance of a Blue Man in the runway show……
When I was self reflecting about my past, the performance by Blue Man Group which I saw when I was 19 came to my mind. I admired them for their coolness as well as playfulness. For the runway show, in addition to the blue man, there were black, yellow, red and white each with their face covered with paper bags. I wanted models who hover between real and unreal while wearing real garments.
Can you tell us about the music composed by Akira Kosemura?
I had a difficult time finding the right music for my Pitti show in 2018, the breakthrough came when I heard the music of Akira Kosemura. Firstly I contacted him through social media, and later asked him to compose music for the show. It happened all naturally and felt that we were meant to collaborate sooner or later. His music has had a significant influence on this collection.
Do you want to show again in Paris?
While runway shows may not be for all designers for me it’s an absolute must! Hence I decided to return this season in Tokyo, in order for me to press “play” again. Yet Paris has always occupied a special place in my heart as if it’s my spiritual home and can’t wait to return.