THE HAND INGRAINED

June 24, 2022

To each one’s own hand and all for one. Born under the sign of Pisces, he only has “water signs” in his studio located in the Ateliers de Paris where “everything is fluid”. In 2019, this alumnus of the London College of Fashion founded his own brand, based on the concept of an evolving wardrobe. “The Act of Growth” was a way of celebrating the tailoring spirit in contemporary fashion, and the art of taking one’s time to do things right – from piping to shoulders. It all starts with 3D computer work. “We don’t lose the hand; on the contrary. Even if there is emphasis on digital, we return very quickly to the pattern, to this craft construction. Everything is done there,” he explains. 

The son of a waterproofing specialist, Steven Passaro, has always loved doing everything with his ten fingers. Handwork seems ingrained in him. Repotting plants, cooking, assembling furniture, his dexterity is voluble. “I cut the material, I assemble the prototypes, I stitch, I learned to make buttonholes, hems, felt collars, linings. Slipper stitch, cross stitch, back stitch, slip stitch – nothing escapes his tactile gaze, his hand is full of eyes. He is curious about everything, able to bridge the gap between Gilles Deleuze and the raw edges, or the advice of a coach and that of a former premier d’atelier at Dior. He enjoys pleats, juxtapositions, materials that have body and a real hand.  “Are you fully living?” This is the theme of this fifth collection presented on June 24th at the Palais de Tokyo. It revolves around four emotions: anger, fear, sadness, joy. From rough and grey fabrics to explosive reds, from drooping collars to woven waves, sensitivity is expressed through the skin and fabric. “Very few designers master the technique. For me, this is true luxury. The important thing is to create meaning everywhere.”

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