Up-Close at Tranoï

juin 23, 2022

Nine designers of Tranoï at the Palais de Tokyo answer the elemental, unavoidable, most obvious question of all: Tell us about a concept or idea you have explored this season?

8IGB

This season 8IGB takes you underwater. The brand presents garments that simulate fish textures, colors, and patterns, creating silhouettes halfway between mermaid and
surfer. The main inspiration is the shark’s fin that we can find developed in pocket flaps or knee pads. Technic mand activewear materials meet sequences, organza and chiffon create a
the balance between fluidity and stiffness. With this collection, 8IGB wants to bring
attention to the question of oceans’ pollution, and rising awareness of preserving the
creatures living in it. With this collection, we wanted to differentiate our production method by collaborating with a French atelier near Paris called ESPERO atelier, where we produced some upcycling pieces using hand embroidery and hand finishings.

David Catalan

“The Collection is inspired by the late 60’s/early 70’s dance scene from the New York suburbs, Harlem and Brooklyn. In the aftermath of the civil rights struggle, these communities came together in authentic cultural hubs, such as the Harlem Renaissance where musicians, designers, photographers ‘and all kinds of artists brought African-American culture to the mainstream. This is considered one of the most iconic moments in fashion, which marks for the first time the individuality, irreverence, and fluidity of genres.”

David Tlale

“Female inclusion in all industries across the globe continues to become more prominent with time. This allows us to neutralise common practices in the way of dress to better understand gender fluid dress and how it will adapt to the Men’s aesthetic in future. The main question prior to the development of this collection was to understand what the future of menswear will be, thus having an exploratory concept that is inspired to adapt womenswear into men’s fashion. This collection includes adaptions of feminine features into the “male” silhouette, offering textures commonly associated with womenswear. With change, in the context of inclusivity, it opens doors to better days by providing garments that communicate aesthetic-progression and relief from constricted ways of dress. Therefore, we say and present the theme, “Let the Good Times Roll” for this edition of Spring Summer.”

Daniel Gayle, de DENZILPATRICK.

“Thinking about my experiences during growing up in London comprehensive school system during the 90’s. Trying to understand my place, understand my queerness, navigate the desire for acceptance in this institution whilst holding on to a sense of self. Then to that final summer graduation, freedom and self-realisation as I took flight into the city, where your fragilities can become your greatest strengths. And so SS23 became a journey into my youth, my experiences, my dreams. And so came the fantasy; London Belongs to Me.”

De Pino

“The spirit of the collection follows the idea of trying on old dresses from the archives of a couture house. The silhouettes are born from this dialogue between past and present. A personal, everyday wardrobe matched with cocktail dresses and evening gowns.”

Estelita Mendonça

“After the pandemic we started wondering about the idea of movement and how this could be counted. The concept of transformation, of change within the movement. The way people, nations and concepts move and transform during time.

We tried to interpret this ideia using layering of diferente materials and colours, exposing seams and finishes almost as some pieces were still in transformation. Contrasting stitches and textures in the same piece, the use of transparency and opacity were also used to give this idea. In pieces like the Ampere t-shirt you can see the zigzag embroidery linking various points as if it was the trajectory between different points. We rubberised caps and some seams by hand, giving it a wet look. In terms of color, we have a neutral background where some strong colours pop, something like colors in a GPS screen. There is a sportswear feeling in the collection that also hints as movement.”

Huarte

“Destination unknown is the spring/summer 2023 collection from Huarte. It celebrates freedom, that feeling of arriving at an airport and taking the first flight without a fixed destination, to put aside the routine, the stress and all that daily pressure with all manage. The details that are already part of the brand’s DNA are reflected in its pieces: mixed qualities, the denim´s work, unisex pieces and that traditional and classic male wardrobe that turns out to be deconstructed and funny somehow, bringing also utilitarian and recreational pieces that completes this collection.”

LYPH

“The base ideas and themes of the collection were built around Dylans 1975 tour Rolling Thunder (MEANING: To Speak The Truth). We teamed this with a longing to travel back to Japan and the US. To merge Asian traditional with Western, Komono with Cowboy and pop cultures.

Upcycled surplus layered with animal print and recycled polyester track suits. Penny loafers next to kids recycled beads… An idea of chaos for that new forward-thinking society. The result is a brand embracing the now in a sophisticated manor. The collection is called – Rolling Thunder – mean – to speak the truth, to live young and play hard.”

MWORKS

“’Boys in shorts love flowers’: this slogan written on a vintage t-shirt found on a flea market in Brussels was the starting point of the collection. This sentence was very catchy, simple, and direct, exactly the tone MWORKS wanted around its unstructured summer wardrobe. This season we collaborated with Debeaulieu, a famous Parisian based artisan florist. Debeaulieu has imagined a floral motif with real flowers in his atelier. Then, MWORKS took pictures of his creation. The idea was to cut into the pictures to create all the pieces making up the clothes. A project mixing different disciplines: flowers arrangement, photography, sustainability and, of course, fashion!’

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