How is your customer shopping right now? What do they have their eyes on?
After the reopening and the mild trend of Covid, there is a very positive hype in the major cities, which is affecting the traffic in brick and mortar. Customer who have been shopping online in last few months are very motivated to be present in the stores and socialize again through shopping. However; the post covid period has a very specific tendency in terms of customer behaviour. Top clients are happy to invest more on ‘The Item’, items that are must haves, strong and social media driven. There are certain brands that they follow, specific products that they want to add to their wardrope; a bag of Bottega Veneta, a Saint Laurent silk shirt, a Celine jacket and bra, a Loewe sweatshirt and so on.
On the other side, the contemporary client is very motivated to buy new brands, be more experimental and enjoy the newest and trendiest. Brands who got even stronger post covid period are the super brands’ fashionable items but still with a heritage touch. Price have been less of an issue if there is a real motivation behind.
What are the challenges of Spring 2022 in terms of buying?
Another season of digital buying has been slightly frustrating for the buyers, making them less motivated and more stressed about the outcome. However, the brands who managed to develop good technological tools are clearly winning over those who are still low-tech.
SS22 is still an “unknown territory” buying season due to the still-present pandemic. So while we were ready to invest again in terms of budgets, there is still a feeling of exaggerated anticipation of a potential new wave.
Physical shows or digital presentations: how do you see the way fashion is presented evolving?
At the beginning, a new settled-down fashion schedule, a new local way of life has been a motivation for a fashion crowd that spent their entire lives running. But after a few seasons of experimenting shows digitally and being curious about new-tech adventures, I believe the entire sector is more than ready to go back to its original hectic life.
But it won’t be a return to the past. The new normal will be the hybrid way of both past and today. A fashion week is not just shows, but it is set of weeks that people interact, talk and get new ideas. This cannot be replaced by a digital presentation. However, cost efficiency and time saving are important aspects of virtual appointments and shows, which will be the new reality of the industry.
What brands were you most excited about seeing?
It’s a bit hard to say as the week is not finished but I have to start with Saint Laurent’s amazing show. I liked the tailoring and catsuit attitude. The new tailored sexiness will be a very important trend next spring.